After a series of hugely successful shows, Prada once again managed to surprise us! From last falls 60’s space age to clean and chic 50’s elegance, Miuccia Prada wanted to bring to the runway some “Sweetness”. But what was the core of the collection really? Well, Italian men have two meaningful relationships in their lives: women and cars. Miuccia put the two together—women in cars—and situated them in a moment in time (maybe the last such) when the world was awash with unambiguous hope for the future, and by that we mean the 50’s.
There were many ways for Miuccia to make her point. The celluloid iconography was irresistible: B-movie roadhouse gals in bandeau tops and leather pencil skirts that had been customized by their spray-painting mechanic boyfriends; David Lynch heroines in varsity jackets and sunray pleats; rhinestone cowgirls in studded Baracutas. If the sweetness in such tough cookies was a little elusive, Miuccia also offered coats in lace or crochet in palest pink and blue and bathing suits that begged for pinup poses round the pool at the Beverly Hills Hotel. The fire graphics and the 50’s cars along with the pastel colours and the feminine silhouette really gave us a smile! Oh and, of course, don’t forget the shoes! The absolutely Whaaam shoes with literally fire on their heels symbolizing the speed of cars!
A traditional seasonal palette of black, gray, taupe neutrals and woodland shades through to lighter forest shades of green. Elegant, teal-like sea green is a major player, along with Honeysuckle that continues to be a key color for the year. Matte black makes a statement, whilst deadened metallic hues add a touch of class. Coffee adds a welcome alternative to black as a fashion color staple, along with the introduction of warm Bamboo.
Bright colors are also here to stay, you can do it from top to bottom., or in case it sound too edgy to you, a safe but funkyway to follow the trend would be combining classic colors with a touch of bright. New way combinations are also vibrant. Some classic fall tones matched more intrudingly will definitely be an indication of a fashion alerted look. Definitely try the autumnal leaves and mustard yellow, bottle green and burgundy red.
Masculine or Feminine| the Big Choice
Blame it on the girls or on the boys, next winter is about opting for the right appeal. After seasons of general cool confusion it seems hot to get back to the two real options. Power dressing is back and an oversized tuxedo might be your number 1 fashion item. If you go feminine tea dresses, elegant maxis and roaring twenties flapper dresses, whilst clever cuts on minimalist pieces such as dresses and coats include asymmetric slashed necklines and multiple-layered collars.
The calf-length skirt, worn with fitted tops (bodies or polo necks) or pussy bow blouses.
The Ballet look is achieved with even more pleats, softer, looser silhouettes and fabrics of diaphanous tulle and soft silk.
Maxi dresses for the evening, elegant, jeweled and sequined encrusted and draped. Flapper dresses with 360° view details: semi-precious placements and in soft tulles and liquid sheens.
Mongolian and astrakhan are still on the guest list but they come hand in hand with fake fur. This year fake looks real and real looks fake.
Another round of transparencies and sheer effects comes in skirts and dresses.
I have a very good feeling about this season. Whilst there will always be one-season wonders, for the most part what I saw were wearable pieces, with emphasis on clever cuts and flattering silhouettes in beautiful fabrics and textures, that bode well women of all personalities.